首先，这座房子是用石灰砂浆和低烧砖建造的。几乎所有30年代建造的房子都是。这两种材料都是多孔的，可以保持水分，特别是如果房子已经被防水涂料覆盖。恐怕“潮气上升”的诊断可能有点误导人。除非墙正对着天然的泉水或爆裂的管道，否则湿气是从上面而不是下面来的。荷兰人(他们对水略知一二)认为我们坚持DPM非常有趣。水不往山上流。在99%的情况下，潮湿源于更高的墙壁，更新DPM(尽管必须这么做)将提供一个方便的地方停止。确保墙面没有受潮的最好方法，是找到并修复进入砌砖的水源。这可以来自各种各样的来源，包括其他人已经提到的那些。 If you are going to re-point, use the original material with which the house was built. Lime mortar, though more expensive than Portland cement, is porous and by nature, softer than the bricks. It therefore acts as a 'sacrificial layer'. Low-fired bricks, when re-pointed with Portland, which is harder than the bricks and not porous, themselves become the sacrificial element of the wall. If you google 'spalling' you will see lots of examples of this. When removing the old mortar, it's best not to use an angle-grinder unless you are very experienced, as the bricks are easily damaged. A spindle-shaped tungsten mortar rake is generally best, These fit most angle-grinders. Once the old mortar is cleared our, wet the work area and use NHL 3.5 lime for repointing, mixed 4:1 with sharp sand in a fairly dry mix, and pack it into the joints, finishing the joint flush with the wall - not recessed, as water needs to run off of the wall, not pool in the joints. Make sure you clean up the brickwork and surrounding areas before the lime mortar dries, as it will stick to anything - including glass! And most importantly, wear gloves and eye protection. Hope this helps.

嗨
使飞机在你认为你需要做什么然后调用构建器的引用在纠正每个工作和价格每工作当一个完整的工作,但让至少三个“不要怕问任何问题他们应该能够回答如果你不快乐又进入下一个构建器,开始当你找到一个你满意你将支付存款只有工作那么你将支付intrim支付当任务完成最后付款如果你满意这将给你一些讨价还价的筹码，在工作完成之前不要支付所有的钱。例如，工作成本为10000英镑，押金为2000英镑，剩下8000，所以做了很多工作，支付2000，下一个工作完成，最后一次付款说，余额为2000。工作飞机付款计划希望这对托尼有所帮助

嗨
首先，从建筑商/屋顶工人那里获得报价，对屋顶、烟囱、DPC和其他导致水进入房产的问题进行分类。一旦你让你的房子防水，你可以看看内部的改进。最大的建议是获得报价和几个!
不要害怕使用不同的职业，如建筑工人、泥水工、木工、水管工等。有些公司可以提供所有这些服务，但从长远来看，雇佣专门从事某一领域的人才可能更好，尤其是如果你花了很多钱的话。