寻找当地的油漆工和装饰师在科巴姆

嗨，汤姆，如果我的假设是正确的，这是一个旧的财产，在我看来，重新脱脂已经在原始的石膏上做了一定程度上是可以的，如果原始的材料是相当坚实的，但不幸的是，你总是会冒着在旧的原始石膏上重新脱脂产生裂缝的风险。如果你在填充裂缝，而裂缝不断出现，那么它看起来就像是支撑石膏处于一个非常糟糕的、不稳定的状态，不应该再被刮上去。我有很多次遇到这样的情况:客户请了一个“抹灰工”重新清理房间，到处都出现裂缝，因为他们给了他们错误的建议，这令人震惊。消除这个问题的唯一方法是回到砖上，重新开始完全的石膏，因为无论你填多少次裂缝，它们都会继续回来，随着时间的推移，恐怕会变得更糟!希望这对你有帮助，卡尔。(附注:如果这是一种新型的物业，而且都是用木板围起来的，那么我就会感到困惑!；）

多乐士或皇冠涂料(贸易)是最好的，其余的都是敲竹杠。白色的柳条光泽过一会儿就会变黄。莱兰油漆供应灯芯。

是的，这是唯一的办法。任何已经上光的木制品都必须充分地擦拭，以便有足够的底漆。只有这样才能作为面漆使用光泽度。(光泽不会延续到旧光泽)希望这有助于…

嗨，novice_40，首先，祝你的项目好运-我希望你喜欢它。新粉刷的墙壁/天花板在油漆开始前总是需要适当密封(否则油漆会停留在表面并很容易脱落)。你可以通过涂抹几层乳液“雾涂层”(将初始溶液的比例为60:40的水稀释成乳液，然后按相反的比例涂第二层雾涂层，以增加覆盖范围，但仍然足够多水，使其继续沉入下面的石膏中)。或者，就像汤姆建议的那样，你可以买一个特制的底漆。如果抹灰工对墙壁“过度抛光”，后一种选择将是最好的，因为抹灰将不能让雾涂层渗透和正确附着。如果你有一个很大的面积/几面墙，那么对你来说最经济有效的方法将是雾涂层-这是一个行业标准和完全可以接受的方法。普通的白色乳剂是合适的，既便宜又容易获得。从石膏的最低点开始涂抹，然后用滚筒向上涂抹。雾层干得很快&这种自下而上的方法可以防止你在石膏上得到油腻的油漆飞溅。用刷子把边缘剪开。 if the ceiling is also bare, then progress onto the ceiling. within the hour, your walls will be ready for the second mist coat. apply this in the same order as the first. a word of caution: even with the best intentions, mist coats can involve a bit of splashing, so make sure your flooring is protected & the sockets temporarily turned off & covered. once the 2 mist coats have fully dried you can more easily assess the plasterer's handiwork. use a spatula to fill any minor dents & give these a light sanding, once cured. anything major & get the plasterer back to resolve it. you don't want to be sanding down large areas of plaster, as this will cause a rough & spoilt finish that will need copious filling & sanding to put right. now, use a proper water-based wood primer for your bare woodwork - for the same reasons as you need to seal fresh plaster. a primer-undercoat is perfectly suitable - though you will need 2 coats: one to prime, a second to undercoat. a third coat is optional, but we'll get to that in a mo. alternatively, you can buy 2 separate paints: one a specified wood primer & the second a specified undercoat. whilst the primer should be water-based, the undercoat can be oil-based - though only if your satinwood is also oil-based. this method can improve the longevity of the finish. once your primer/first layer of primer-undercoat is dry, caulk your woodwork. next, move back to your ceiling/walls. this time begin with the ceiling (either silk or matt are suitable finishes - but silk is a more reflective surface that draws the eye & can accentuate any imperfections). get your first coat on. cut in free-hand, moving your brush from 1/2 inch away from the corner inwards towards the join as your hand steadies & finds the line. don't try to leap straight into the corner unless you've got a steady hand. whether you cut in before or after rollering is down to personal preference. i prefer beforehand as it avoids a visible 'tram line' created by dragging your brush through a rollered section. whichever you choose, ensure you keep a wet edge (ie: don't allow the paint to dry between cutting in & rollering). allow the edges to dry, then move down to the walls. get your first coat of dulux endurance on. cut in free-hand. once dried, repeat the process for your second coats. if you are prepared to wait up to a couple of days between coats (dep. on drying conditions) for the paint to fully cure, you can use (yellow) frog tape to help you achieve a clean line between surfaces. be very careful when removing it however, as this can pull the paint back off if it isn't fully cured. finally, give your woodwork a light sanding to remove any splashes of paint & nibs of rough wood fibres. ideally, apply another undercoat, to improve the coverage & durability, then (when dry) apply your satinwood top coat. again, if you're happy the walls have cured sufficiently, frog tape can give you a razor sharp line where the satinwood meets the emulsion. take care when peeling it away. there you have it! any questions, feel free to give me a holla. meantime, i hope this helps. happy painting! best, alix james decorators